Q+A — Stuart Rogan, Co-Owner + Exec Chef
Chef in action. Photos by Luke Foley-Martin
How old were you when you started working in hospo?
Fourteen
Where and what doing?
Basingstoke Country Hotel, Hampshire — pot wash department.
What do you love about cheffing?
You’re forever learning. You never reach the end where you know everything, there’s always something new to discover or figure out.
One of your fav moments:
One night not long after we had opened it was my birthday, I looked up during service and the whole place was full. Emma was working the floor and we had this great team around us. The kitchen and bar were full. This thing that we’d dreamed about for so long was finally a reality. That was a pretty special moment.
What bugs you about it?
There’s a lot that is challenging. You don’t get much sleep or downtime. It’s not an easy line of work and sometimes it’s just the little things — you’ll have a million things going on all at once and no time to spare and then say, a sales rep will turn up mid-service wanting to talk, and they’ll say “I used to be a chef.” Ha — I’m like, come on...then you should have better timing !
One of your worst moments in the kitchen:
Almost burning down someone else’s restaurant.
Back in the day, you’d leave the beef stock in a huge pot on a very low heat overnight — so that the bones would break down and the flavour of the stock could really develop. But when I got in the next morning the pot was smoking, completely black and all the liquid was gone. It was probably only minutes away from catching fire. The owner was a really nice guy. That was a low point.
What do you secretly not mind about Lockdown?
Getting more than 4 hours sleep a night.
What’s been the biggest challenge?
Staying busy. Not thinking too far ahead.
What are you drinking right now?
A glass of Te Kano 2018 Pinot Noir — it’s after 6pm !
What are you listening to / or watching?
I’ve been listening to Deep in the Weeds — this podcast that interviews Chefs and hospitality operators. One episode I really related to, where a chef was talking about how every trainee chef needs to work at a high end restaurant at the beginning of their training. Because it teaches the standards and good habits that you need to take with you throughout your working life.
What’s the craziest / weirdest thing you’ve overheard a customer say during service:
We have had a few people try and eat the little biodegradable hand towels we offer with the edamame beans. And the edamame skins ! I have heard comments they find them a bit tough :D It’s a reminder to us to never assume anything.
If you could eat anything for dinner tonight, from any restaurant in the world what would it be?
I’d go back to Borough Market in London — I hope they still serve those pork sausages in fresh baguette with caramelised onions, hot mustard and tomato sauce. So good.